Check the surface, edges, and wires of the solar panels.
Look for cracks, scratches, water stains, or loose/broken wiring.

If found: Damage may be causing low output.

Look around and above the panels—especially during peak sun hours.
Common blockers: tree branches, buildings, roof vents, dust, bird droppings, snow, or clouds.

Tip: Even a small shadow on part of a panel can greatly reduce its power.

Panels work best when facing direct sunlight.
If they’re lying flat or tilted away from the sun, power will be lower.
Simple fix: Adjust the angle to face the sun more directly, if possible.

If your battery is nearly full, the solar controller will reduce charging power—this is normal.

How to check:
Look at the battery voltage on your controller’s screen, or
Use a multimeter to measure battery voltage (compare with your battery’s full-charge voltage from the manual).
If voltage is near full: Low solar input is likely normal.

Do this on a sunny day, around noon if possible.
Disconnect the panel from the controller and battery.

Measure:
Open-circuit voltage (Voc): Connect multimeter to panel’s positive and negative ends. Voltage should be close to the value on the panel label.
Short-circuit current (Isc): Carefully switch multimeter to DC current mode and connect to panel ends. Current should be near the label value.

If readings are much lower than stated: The panel may be faulty.

Look at the battery voltage shown on the controller display.
If the battery is nearly full, the controller will automatically reduce the charging current — this is normal.

YES → System is working normally. No further action needed.

NO → Proceed to Step 2.

If sunlight is weak or panels are shaded → Clean panels and try again when the sun is stronger.

If sunlight is strong and panels are unshaded → Go to Step 3.

On a sunny day, disconnect the solar panel cables from the controller.

Use a multimeter to measure:
Open-circuit voltage (Voc)
Short-circuit current (Isc)
(Be careful when measuring current.)

Compare your readings with the values printed on the back of the solar panel.

If readings are much lower than the label → The solar panel may need repair or replacement.

If readings are normal → Go to Step 4.

Enter the controller’s settings menu (see your user manual).

Confirm the following are set correctly:
Battery type (e.g., Lithium, AGM, Flooded)
Charging voltage parameters

If settings were wrong → Adjust according to your battery’s specifications.

If settings are correct → The controller itself may be faulty and please conatct us for deep spport.

Do this on a sunny day, around noon if possible.
Disconnect the panel from the controller and battery.

Measure:
Open-circuit voltage (Voc): Connect multimeter to panel’s positive and negative ends. Voltage should be close to the value on the panel label.
Short-circuit current (Isc): Carefully switch multimeter to DC current mode and connect to panel ends. Current should be near the label value.

If readings are much lower than stated: The panel may be faulty.

Is the battery located in a place colder than 32°F (0°C)?

YES → Most lithium batteries stop charging in very cold temperatures to stay safe.
What to do: Move the battery to a warmer spot (above 32°F) and try charging again.

NO → Go to Step 2.

Look at your solar controller or charger settings.

Make sure:
Battery type is set correctly (e.g., Lithium, LiFePO4, AGM).
Charging voltage matches what’s recommended for your battery (check battery label or manual).

If settings are wrong → Adjust them to match your battery’s requirements.

If settings are correct → Go to Step 3.

Try charging your battery with a different compatible charger. Or, try using your charger on another similar battery.

If your battery charges with a different charger → Your original charger may be faulty.

If your charger works on another battery → The issue is likely with your battery.

If you can’t test or both seem fine → Go to Step 4.

Have you used the battery almost daily for over 2–3 years?
Is it past its warranty period?

If YES to either → Batteries naturally lose capacity over time and heavy use. This may be normal aging.

If NO to both → Go to Step 5.

Was the battery left completely drained for weeks or months without being recharged?

YES → Very deep, long-term discharge can permanently damage a battery. Unfortunately, this is not covered under warranty.

NO → Please proceed to contact support.

Unplug all devices from the inverter’s AC outlets.
Plug in a simple, known-working device like a small desk lamp or phone charger.

• If the device works → The problem may be with your original appliance or its power cord.
• If the device still doesn’t work → Go to Step 2.

Turn the inverter off and disconnect it from the battery.

Check:
Battery cables – Are they tight and clean at both ends?
Inverter output terminals/wires – Are any wires loose, disconnected, or damaged?
Reconnect everything securely and turn the inverter back on.

• If you found and fixed a loose connection → Try again.
• If all connections are good → Go to Step 3.

When you turn the inverter on, listen for alarm beeps or look for flashing warning lights.

Check the display (if any) for error codes like:
Low Voltage (LV)
Overload (OL)
Over Temperature (OT)

• If you see/hear a warning → This indicates why the inverter won’t output power. Note the code and check your manual.
• If no warnings appear → Go to Step 4.

Use a multimeter to check your battery voltage.

Compare it to the inverter’s low voltage cutoff level (see manual, often around 10.5V for 12V systems).

• If battery voltage is too low → The inverter is protecting itself. Recharge the battery.
• If battery voltage is normal → Please proceed to contact support.

Plug your device into a different, known-good power source (like a regular wall outlet or a car charger).

• Device still doesn't work → The device is faulty. Repair or replace it.
• Device works normally → The problem is with your solar power system. Proceed to Step 2.

Connections: Make sure the device plug is fully inserted into the system's output port (USB, AC socket, or DC terminal).

Cables: Inspect the cable for damage, cuts, or chew marks.

Switch: Ensure the load output switch on the controller or inverter is turned ON.

Look at the display or LED lights on your solar controller or inverter.
Is there an error code? Is the output/load indicator lit?

Check the battery charge indicator on the controller or battery.

Is the battery very low or empty? A deeply discharged battery will trigger Low Voltage Disconnect (LVD), cutting off power to protect itself.

Breaker/Fuse: Find the DC circuit breaker or fuse for the load circuit. Check if it has tripped or blown. Reset or replace it (with the correct rating).

Inverter (for AC devices): Check if the inverter shows Overload, Overheat, or Short Circuit warnings. Try turning the inverter off and on again.

Set your multimeter to the correct voltage setting (DC for USB/12V ports, AC for wall-style sockets).

Action: With the device unplugged, measure the voltage at the system's output port.

Result:

• 0 Volts → The system is not providing power. The issue is upstream (controller, battery, or wiring).
• Very Low Voltage (e.g., less than 11V for a 12V system) → The battery is severely depleted. The system is in protection mode.
• Normal Voltage → Power is present, but the voltage may drop when the device is connected. This indicates a poor connection or a high-power device straining the system.

Find the power rating (in Watts, W) on your device's label. For motors (fans, pumps), note the higher startup power requirement.

Compare this to your solar system's maximum output rating (check your controller or inverter manual for "Load Output" or "Rated Output").

Judgment: If Device Power > System Max Output, your system is overloaded and cannot safely power the device. You need a smaller device or a larger solar system.