I have tried multiple wiring configurations to charge my aux battery and it is not working. Dont change terminology from one product to the next. On the last dcdc charger the connections were input on one side, out put on the other. On the model, in is alt and bat. Also, the IGN wire has changed. If you chane the connection type and supply the wire, provide enough wire. I have to splice wires. This is one more possible failure point. How about getting customer input BEFORE you release a product rather than this survey after the fact.

I had trouble getting this to run with my setup, an old Casita trailer towed by a Toyota Sienna minivan. Never did really find out what the 9.6-16V Input Voltage Range spec meant since you can't get this to actually charge if the input voltage is below 11.5V. This DC-to-DC Battery Charger is not well suited to trailer application due to the starter battery protection feature not being able to be shut off. The long circuit path (typical of most trailer setups I would expect) introduces enough resistance that I am limited to 10A even after rewiring my trailer with 8AWG. I had to fake a signal for the IGN input to the charger because the standard 7 pin trailer plug does not have a spare connection for a wire coming from the tow vehicle and, like most newer vehicles, the Sienna has the equivalent of a smart alternator. When I tried to charge at 20A the charger would start up at a lower current, then draw enough that the input voltage drops below 11.5, and the charger would stop charging and repeat the cycle (see scope trace). This should work fine for a motorhome setup though. Just use the beefy wire they recommend in the manual and keep the wires short on the input side or use heavier gauge. I bought the BT-2 to help monitor charging and I recommend it. I did not realize that I could set the charging current in the Renogy DC Home app and then flip back to the Lithium with Activation setting while keeping the 10A setting. This saved my butt.